Use high-quality paint and primer to finish the wall.Once the compound sets, sand the area lightly.Use joint compound to fill the crack and holes.Scrape off any dried adhesive coming out of the holes.Back out the screws and scrape off the washers.Wipe excess adhesive with a wet sponge.Put washers about 8 to 12 inches apart on both sides of the crack.The screw pulls the lath against the plaster’s backside while the washer gives the screwhead a wide clamping surface. Drive it through one of the adhesive-filled holes, into the lath.Place a 2-inch plastic washer over a 1 5/8-inch drywall screw.Scrape off any excess and wipe the wall clean with a wet sponge. Squeeze the caulking gun trigger until the glue fills the hole and some comes out around the nozzle.Place the adhesive tube’s nozzle in one of the holes.Wait 10 minutes for the conditioner to soak into the plaster and wood.Spray-pump a stream (one or two squeezes) of plaster conditioner into each of the holes.Use safety goggles and disposable gloves.Vacuum the plaster debris out of all the holes.Continue until there is a series of holes about 4 inches apart on both sides of the crack.Drill another hole about 3 inches from the first and about 2 inches from the crack.Using a 3/16-inch masonry bit (available at hardware stores), drill a hole in the plaster about 2 inches from the crack.The following are instructions for repairing plaster walls with a plaster conditioner, adhesive and a joint compound. If you plan on repainting your plaster walls, these cracks need to be repaired. Above and beside doorways and windows, are classic areas of cracking. Like any surface, plaster walls can get dinged, gouged and cracked. This feature is part of the historical charm of an older home. Builders nailed thin, closely spaced strips of wood (lath) to wall studs and then covered them with multiple coatings of a dry powder mixed with water to form a stiff workable paste (plaster). Houses built before 1940 have lath and plaster walls.
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